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When assembling a roll of London’s top dining spots, one might anticipate well-known award-winning venues. Yet, nestled prominently among these culinary heavyweights is a modest salonu located in a far-flung part of north London.

An Surprise Accolade

The small Turkish restaurant, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the city by a influential culinary publication. The recognition has left the family completely astonished.

“I am completely shocked,” says a family member, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their modest shop securing such a prominent spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

The small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular food hotspot, has kept much of its earlier feel. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking show, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” comments the owner.

The Namesake Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the food, and this eatery more than succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a moist, juicy texture.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. Once the savoury mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic described this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than usual, resulting in it a richer, more aromatic and more balanced flavour.

Surpassing the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, comparable meals at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

The Philosophy of Warmth

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is echoed by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to reveal what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Path of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I feel very proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is set to echo beyond its own doors. “I believe many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the broader meaning of this gastronomic achievement.